I have to admit right up front that the ski resort of Courmayeur wasn’t our true destination when we visited the Aosta valley in Italy, and if you have already been to the Alps you would know why. Many European ski resorts occupy just a small parcel of space in a vast world of peaks, watersheds, glaciers, bowls, chutes and rock while the actual pistes are hardly visible from across the valley. Our real destination was the off-piste terrain, and much of it was accessible directly off the lift system here. We were not disappointed with what we found.

The Courmayeur Guides Society, established in 1850, played a critical role in our trip. Not only did the guides allow us access to the guided-only trams and show the way to the best skiing, but they did so in safety. Glacial skiing in avalanche terrain should not be taken lightly, and daily avalanche beacon checks were the norm.

The skiing at Courmayeur actually starts above the village at Plan Checroit, and from there lifts take skiers up to the Cresta Youla Station at 8,550 feet. There are lavish views north across the valley to the Mt. Blanc massif and the Helbronner on the French border. My judgment of distance and scale is instantly distorted. The tram up to Helbronner is vaguely visible. Above us still, as we board the guides-only tram, stood the Arp at 9,000 feet. From the Arp we ski several off-piste routes to the north down into the Val Veny. The descent starts in high mountain powder bowls and chutes, and continues down into small trees. Eventually we are lead to the bottom of the valley where we tour back to the Zerotta chairlift. Also from the Arp we ski several runs off the east side back to the village of Courmayeur, once again scribing turns down untracked snow, exiting along a stream bed which resembles a rollercoaster-half-pipe-obstacle-course. From the top of the Arp we descend 5,040 vertical feel to where we now stand, and my legs burn true. Gary has a grin so wide he’s picking teeth out of his ears. From here we take the public bus back to the tram station, or a Guides Society van was called to pick us up.

Another day took us to the top of the Helbronner Station at 11,000 feet where the southern views back across the valley to Courmayeur were also spectacular. Further to the north in France, the Aiguile du Midi thrust into the sky. Our plan for the day is to ski the Toula glacier back down towards Courmayeur, then go over the top again and ski the Valley Blanche route down into Chamonix. As we exit the tram station onto the steel walkway, I peek over the side into the coulior that was skied in Greg Stump’s "Blizzard of Ahhs" video. I’m convinced I see my gravestone down near the bottom. To get to the glacier, we climb down a steel stairway perched on a ridge of exposed rock near the summit, and the pull of gravity never feels stronger. With our ski’s on I feel much more comfortable, and we descend behind the guide in changing snow conditions as we move from shaded to sunbaked aspects down towards la Palud near Courmayeur.

Once again at the top of the Helbronner, we exit from the tram towards France and begin skiing down the Glacier du Géant to the Mer du Glace - otherwise known as the Valley Blanche tour. The glaciers expose themselves at every bend and roll in their path, displaying ice as blue as precious stones. In some places the vastness of the region is so overwhelming I feel as though I shouldn’t be here, as if I’m sneaking across a runway. We climb off the glacier near the bottom and descend into the village of Chamonix. From here we are taken by bus through the Mount Blanc Tunnel back to Courmayeur.

On another day our guide, Alexio, takes us back to France to ski at the Gran Montet resort. After we bought our passes, including a pair of single-ride tickets for the tram from Lognan to the summit of the Grand Montets, we boarded the tram. From the summit, we skied two off-piste runs down steep hardpan back to the Lognan mid-station. After a good dump, the off-piste here would be phenomenal as it was entirely glacier skiing on wide slopes. Last run of the day was up to the summit again, and off the back of the mountain towards the Mer de Glace to descend into Chamonix. On this descent we ski terrain that is scarier than any I have been on, but the sun baked snow conditions help my confidence (check out the photo on page 55 of March 1998 Powder Magazine). Steep chutes wind their way among rocks down the mountain to the glacial valleys on yet another epic run into Chamonix. Back at the hotel that evening, we meet with our guides and decide we need a day of touring to round out our week. We plan an excursion to earn our turns for our last day.

At 7 am we departed from the hotel in the Guides Society van and drive to Tronchey where we find a snowmobile waiting for us. Sensing what we are in for, we put on all our clothes to stay warm for the ride, and all eight of us eagerly take hold of the tow rope for a 20 minute transport along a stream up to la Vachey. From here we apply skins to our skis and climb for three hours into the warming sun. The light of the early morning enhances the terrain, and alpenglow touches the surrounding ridges. We climb 2,800 feet up to the Pas Entre Deux Sauts where we pause for a lunch of local meats, cheeses, bread, fruits and chocolate. From here we descend 500 feet, then climb another half hour up to the Sapin Col. The village of Courmayeur and the ski resort lay across the valley. The Arp snowfields are plainly visible, and I recall segments of earlier runs. The first part of this 4,000 foot descent we ski sun-warmed hero snow down into the valley, then into the shaded slopes that turn into silky cold powder. We regroup and ski down a half-pipe for a 1/4 mile, then past a summer farm, and finally flying down an unplowed road back into the village. We carry our skis down the center of town like we are locals. We had skied it all. We groomed the place, and we will return.

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